Coquito: A Boricua Home Brew
Your grandma’s eggnog, it ain’t.
Coquito, the Puerto Rican version whose ‘kick’ depends on the cojones of its maker, drew hundreds of party-goers this Saturday to el Museo del Barrio in East Harlem. The seventh annual coquito-tasting contest featured more than 30 entries from as nearby as 110th and Third Avenue, to as far away as the Pocono Mountains in Pennsylvania. What everyone shared though was a love of Boricua heritage and an undeniable desire to keep a family Christmas tradition alive.
“Coquito is about a cultural connection,” said Debbie Quiñones, who flitted here and there all evening, trying to make sure her ‘extended family’ was all right. She hosted the first tasting party in her apartment. When the gatherings became too large, three years ago, she chatted up a welcoming neighbor: el Museo.
But, “It’s growing bigger than what we can handle!” el Museo’s director of public programs, Gonzalo Casals said onstage, sharing a laugh with the overflow crowd.
http://www.vimeo.com/2563222Well before the pouring, yelling, jostling and tasting began, it was clear that coquito (literally, small coconut, in Spanish) was so much more than the yummiest drink, ever.
“I’m the only one in my family who makes coquito,” said Enid Rodriquez, who was participating in the contest for the first time. “Throughout the years, the tradition has gotten lost in the family and I was the one who picked it up.”
Iris Mendez, bottle #10 and also a first-timer, debuted her mother’s recipe. “I hope I get lucky tonight,” she said, “because there’s lots of competition here.”
Martha Laureano-Perez, bottle #21, entered the recipe of her late husband, Richie Perez, a well-known human rights activist who died in 2004. “We were married for 23 years and every Christmas we made coquito together.”
http://www.vimeo.com/2563273This year’s winner, a husband and wife team who concocted bottle #15, accepted with a nod to their New York roots: Hunts Point, the Lower East Side and of course, Harlem.
After the tasting, everyone rocked their hips to the transplanted African rhythms of Segunda Quimbamba and head-nodded as poet, Emanuel Xavier, essentialized what it was and is, to be Nuyorican. (In his “Nueva York” poem, below, listen carefully for, “papitos vendiendo coquitos mientras brown-skinned project mothers crossed themselves every morning before heading off to the factories or going off to do the compras…”)
The museum event ended around 8:30pm with little to no coquito left. No doubt, the after-party duró toda la noche.